notable edibles

A Delightful Deli, New York Style

By | September 06, 2017
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Michael Gabriel, Long Island native and recent Johnson & Wales grad, looked around Rhode Island and didn’t see the kind of deli he’d grown up with in New York. So last August he opened his own: The Provisioner, an amazing sandwich and takeout shop that sources local ingredients, makes most condiments in-house and adds a distinctly New York twist to some familiar sandwiches.

Take the house-made meatballs in the “Goomba”: smooth-textured, delicately herbed, San-Marzano sauced and served on house-made ciabatta. Or the “Cabbie,” a Greek-style grilled lemon chicken breast with house-made tzatziki on a warm, thick pita. The “Cowboy Killer” is a new addition to a menu with approximately 20 sandwich choices (many named for Long Island or other New York locations), plus two kinds of “street tacos,” hand-cut French fries and beer-battered onion rings.

The CK has two brisket sliders, each topped with an onion ring, a treat for my carnivorous companion. And a New York City Millennial friend, chowing down with us, pronounced the “Carnegie,” with house-braised corned beef, “the best and the leanest” he’d ever had. Ditto on the eponymous “Provisioner,” with five-hour red-wine-braised beef ribs, with caramelized onions and sautéed mushrooms. Located in a small retail plaza with other offerings of sushi, pizza and burgers, the Provisioner is the knockout winner!

7669 Post Rd., North Kingstown. 401.667.0663; ProvisionerDeli.com

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