The midday delivery of heaps of fresh, slippery seafood included squid, flounder and this silvery black sea bass, which was broken down, dressed and trussed before being roasted whole.
Here the whole black sea bass was grilled and gently nestled on a bed of leeks and herbs all in the midst of a kitchen that, while densely occupied, still maintained an underlying energy of serenity.
The delicate, shaved kohlrabi Caesar with herring, croutons and Parmesan was displayed in the signature birch and Oberlin style, at times resembling a landscape or miniature diorama in its artful construction.
A long day ended splendidly over a digestif and apple tart served with a sweet, herbaceous ice cream made with woodruff, an herb used since the Middle Ages for medicinal purposes and to settle the stomach.
One of Chef/Owner Ben Sukle’s activities for the day was grappling with the finicky and temperamental attitude of the sourdough starter, which in the end cooperated beautifully. All breads and fresh pastas are made in-house at Oberlin.
Attention to detail can be witnessed on the micro and macro levels at Oberlin. Each ingredient is given careful consideration and is used to its fullest potential, even the simple carrot.
Cavatelli with pork ragu, breadcrumbs and oregano was assembled in a welcoming and hearty ceramic dish.
Delicate fish and lobster dumplings with Tarbais beans, draped with nasturtium leaves and scallions received the final touches, nudges and wipes before it was ushered to an awaiting table.
The ceramics and dishware, in combination with their deeply comforting and satisfyingly earthy contents, are part of what makes Oberlin a true sister to birch.