How a Japanese Method is Redefining Rhode Island’s Seafood Scene
ON THE BOAT: THE IKE JIME PROCESS IN ACTION
A fisherman aboard a small rod-and-reel boat pulls his catch onto the deck, moving quickly and deliberately. He reaches for a stainless-steel spike, positioning it precisely before delivering a quick thrust to the brain. The fish’s eyes and fins flare for a brief moment—then, complete stillness. It is instantly brain-dead, experiencing no further stress.
Moving quickly, the fisherman slices the membrane behind the gills, placing the fish into a bleed tank. Its heart continues pumping, expelling blood that, if left inside, would serve as a major source of bacteria and accelerate decomposition. The fisherman repeats this process with each catch.
Once the fish has been fully bled, he retrieves it again, using a thin, flexible wire to perform Shinke-jime, a technique that destroys the spinal cord. This prevents residual nerve firing, delays rigor mortis and reduces its intensity. The result? A longer shelf life and a pristine texture. Finally, the fish is submerged into a saltwater ice slurry (with a precisely even ratio of ice to water) rapidly lowering its temperature and inhibiting bacterial growth.
This is Ike Jime, a Japanese method of dispatching fish that requires skill and precision. For those who practice it, the benefits are undeniable.
WHY FISHERMEN TAKE THESE EXTRA STEPS
Captain John Lee, a Rhode Island fisherman with decades of commercial fishing experience, has embraced Ike Jime to improve the quality of his catch, increase its market value, and ensure a humane kill. “I like fish, and I’ve seen a lot of fish die. This is a good way to kill them,” Lee says. “Some of these fish, like blackfish, can live a long time out of water. The fish deserves to be put to sleep quickly.”
Beyond the ethical aspect, Ike Jime (pronounced EE-kay JEE-may) also makes financial sense. “I get more money per pound, and I like the idea of supplying a direct product that is higher quality,” Lee adds.
On Block Island, Ebben Howarth has also incorporated Ike Jime into his fishing, as well as the seafood business he runs on the island and the mainland with his fiancée, Maddy Murphy. Since Howarth is both a fisherman and restaurant/catering business owner, he sees firsthand how the method elevates the product.
“We were about to open our pop-up restaurant, Crudo Bar by Sediment, and I started doing it to all the fish I was catching—black sea bass, scup, triggerfish, bluefish, tautog, mackerel. Every fish I could get my hands on; I was using Ike Jime because I knew it would lead to really high-end quality fish. The texture is just superior, and the clean flavor makes a huge difference in how the fish is experienced,” he says.
For fishermen, the learning curve is real. Mastering the precise placement of the brain spike takes practice, as does refining the efficiency of the process while actively fishing. “Different species have different brain locations. I felt pretty confident after doing it for a few weeks, but I’m still learning,” Howarth admits.
For those who persist, Ike Jime is an investment that pays off—not only in financial returns but also in the satisfaction of delivering a premium product.
EXPANDING THE MARKET FOR IKE JIME FISH
Stu Meltzer of Fearless Fish was the first seafood dealer in Rhode Island to introduce locally sourced Ike Jime fish to the market. His motivation? A dedication to quality. “From the get-go, I’ve always been quality-focused when it comes to fish. It’s not necessarily when it was landed but how it was handled,” Meltzer says. “Rod-and-reel Ike Jime—it doesn’t get any better.”
Recognizing the need to build a supply chain to support this premium product, Meltzer decided to source directly from fishermen practicing Ike Jime. “If I wanted to carry this in my shop, I needed to buy it myself and set up the supply chain,” he says. “Wholesale made sense because working directly with fishermen meant larger volumes—more than just my shop could handle.”
By establishing these direct relationships with buyers in the region and beyond, Meltzer is able to offer seafood that stands out from conventional catch.
“The fishermen are craftsmen. They take pride in what they’re doing and are getting rewarded for the extra care they put into their fish.” Demand from chefs has been strong, particularly from those looking for superior texture, flavor and extended shelf life. “My customers—chefs and in the shop—immediately notice the difference,” Meltzer says.
A CHEF’S PERSPECTIVE
Chefs in Rhode Island and elsewhere are embracing locally sourced Ike Jime fish. From high-end sushi restaurants to fine-dining establishments in New York City, Austin and Chicago; to Rhode Island favorites like Bayberry Garden, Castle Hill Inn, Dune Brother’s Seafood, Gift Horse, Oberlin, Guisto and Hangry Kitchen—the demand for premium, expertly handled seafood is growing.
Ben Sukle, owner/chef of Oberlin, values Ike Jime for its ability to elevate lesser-known local species. “It allows us to showcase species that people don’t typically associate with crudo, like bluefish or sea robin. It makes people realize how incredible our local seafood can be,” he says.
Sky Kim, chef de cuisine at Gift Horse, Oberlin’s sister restaurant, has also embraced Ike Jime. “In Korea, a lot of people also do Ike Jime, so I’m familiar.” At Gift Horse, they have been serving Ike Jime fish in two ways: one as a deep-fried whole fish ssam— lettuce leaves with rice, an array of pickled vegetables and spicy peanut sauce—and also as crudo. “For fatty fish like mackerel, we serve simply with sesame oil and sea salt. For other more mild fish, Sicilian style with capers, lemon and olive oil.”
Similarly, chef Jen Wilkie of Bayberry Garden highlights how the technique enhances raw preparations. “We’ve mostly been using it for crudos because the quality is so gorgeous that we want to highlight the fish in its purest form.” One of Bayberry’s standout dishes this past season was black sea bass crudo with cucumber, jalapeño and lemon balm. But even in cooked applications, the difference was noticeable. A summer entrée featured striped bass served with sweet garlic purée, blistered cherry tomatoes, snap peas and scallion salsa verde—a fresh and vibrant preparation that highlighted the clean, delicate flavor and firm texture of the Ike Jime fish. “It’s really fun when someone notices the quality and says, ‘That’s the best striped bass we’ve ever had,” she says.
Nick Gillespie, owner of Dune Brothers, was introduced to Ike Jime seafood early in his career while working at a sashimi restaurant in Boston where they imported Ike Jime fish from Japan. Last summer, he began working directly with local fishermen to bring local Ike Jime fish to his restaurants. With the recent launch of his wholesale and retail operation, he is eager to expand access to this premium product. “We’ve seen how well it performs in our kitchen, and we’re excited to provide [customers with] quality local Rhode Island seafood. If we can incorporate local Ike Jime into it and pay the fishermen even more, we are even more excited about it.”
LOOKING TO THE FUTURE
While Ike Jime remains a niche practice for small-scale fishermen who can take the extra time to handle each fish this way, it is undoubtedly reshaping Rhode Island’s seafood culture and building the state’s reputation for quality seafood. However, it won’t be for every fisherman, and it’s not necessary for every dish. As Meltzer puts it, “The important thing to remember is there is a spectrum of fish quality. Just bleeding and icing properly makes a huge difference. Ike Jime takes it to the next level and for some dishes and/or customers that’s worth it.”
With growing awareness and dedication from Rhode Island’s seafood community, this traditional technique may well become a defining feature of the state’s local seafood movement. It offers not only a better product but also a more humane and intentional way to handle seafood, ensuring that consumers get the best possible fish and that fishermen get paid more for their catch.
FOR MORE, VISIT:
EatingWithTheEcosystem.org/ike-jime-project
Fearless-Fish.com
Oberlin.com
BayberryGarden.com
SedimentBlockIsland.com
DuneBrothers.com
Interested in learning more about the Ike Jime method and tasting the difference? Join Edible Rhody and Gil’s Appliances for a special evening at Gil’s in Bristol on May 6 with guest chefs from Oberlin and Bayberry Garden, plus Fearless Fish Market. Click here for tickets and more information.
Kate Masury is the executive director at Eating with the Ecosystem, a nonprofit whose mission is to promote a place-based approach to sustaining New England’s wild seafood.
