What’s Popping up in Providence
It was a “full circle” experience as I walked into Fortnight Wine Bar on Dorrance Street in downtown Providence– in true Rhode Island-speak, the bar space was where Aruba Steve’s used be—on a chilly winter night. It was my old stomping ground with friend and Johnson & Wales classmate Trinity Auriemma. But going into the bar this time, I was there for a very different reason. Not just a drink with my friend; I was there for a pop-up dinner hosted by Trinity and his business partner, Nikhil Naiker.
Nikhil and Trinity met each other while working for chef/owner and James Beard Award nominee James Mark of North (they also both worked at Mark’s former North Bakery). Their cooking style reflects that experience: small plates with an Asian influence, created using fresh, local ingredients.
Their pop-up concept revolves around local sourcing, showcasing locally landed seafood and seasonal veggies grown in and around Rhode Island. Before attending their pop-up I studied the menu in advance so I knew exactly what to order before I even stepped foot in the bar: roasted broccoli salad with a soft boiled egg, and the grilled and chilled squid with carrot.
The roasted broccoli salad was served with an apple and fennel dressing that was absolutely delicious, flavored by the sweetness of the apple and savory licorice flavor of the fennel. The fresh Point Judith squid was cooked to perfection and the sweetness of the carrot balanced the subtle saltiness of the dish.
Trinity surprised our table with dessert on the house. It was a celeriac (celery root) cake with carrot ice cream. The carrot ice cream was made with overwintered carrots, which gives them a sweeter flavor to start. They were roasted, which gave them an espresso-like flavor. The resulting ice cream tasted more like coffee and almost nothing like carrots—it tasted light, almost like a chilled mousse.
These were just some of the amazing dishes that are a part of Nikhil and Trinity’s fresh and delectable cooking style. Featured on their more recent menus are dishes like Okayu (Japanese slow-cooked rice) with pickled mussels, charred scallion and furikake; and grilled cauliflower with miso ranch, bonito, mushroom and dill. The two hope to open their own brick-and-mortar restaurant in the future, but in the meantime they will continue offering pop-up dinners.
Along with Trinity and Nikhil’s pop-up, there’s another pop-up dotting the dining landscape in Providence. The Fat Pig, a fine-dining concept specializing in Spanish and Portuguese flavors, is run by Kevin Matos and Jonathon Kirk. Kevin owns JC’s Butcher Shop in West Warwick, and Matos Bakery with locations in West Warwick and Pawtucket. Kevin and Jonathon both have a considerable amount of experience in the food service industry.
Their pop-up is focused on “high end food without the pretentiousness” that usually comes with fine dining. The Fat Pig encourages interactive eating with food, such as a smoked pig’s head that feeds five people. They try to support as many local farms as possible in their pop-up cooking. They currently purchase meat from Blackbird Farms in Smithfield and Hopkins Southdown in North Scituate and buy produce at the Pawtucket Wintertime Farmers Market.
Kevin and Jonathon are hoping to gain popularity with their pop-ups so that they can continue with a string of pop-ups or, hopefully, a brick-and-mortar in the near future. The Fat Pig had a pop-up at Fortnight wine bar in March and plans future pop-ups throughout the spring.
To find these pop-ups and when the next one will be popping up in Providence (and the surrounds), follow these promising young chefs on Instagram:
