Heat olive oil in a medium saucepot over medium heat; add leeks and garlic and season with salt and pepper. When the leeks are translucent but not browned, add wine or vermouth. Bring to a boil and add fish stock. Return to a boil, add potatoes and reduce heat to a simmer. Cook 10 to 12 minutes, until potatoes are fork tender. Add fish fillets, cover pot and turn off heat. The fish will cook through in the hot broth. Smaller fillets like scup will cook in 5 minutes; larger pieces like cod or monkfish will take 10 to 12 minutes.

While the stew rests, make the herb salad: Combine olive oil, lemon juice and zest, honey and seasoning in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Chop and then add fresh herbs, tossing gently to coat. Taste for seasoning.

When the fish is cooked, add the lemon juice and zest to the stew. Gently break the fillets into large pieces, ladle the stew into warm bowls and garnish with herb salad. Drizzle with your fanciest olive oil, serve with hot crusty bread and take heart in the fact that sunnier days await.

*Note: Leeks are notorious for hiding dirt or sand in their many layers. Once you’ve sliced your leeks, soak them in a bowl full of cold water, then drain and rinse.