How and Where to Enjoy “Ninigret Nectar” Oysters in Rhode Island and Beyond
The Behan Family Farm is special. Not only do they produce delicious oysters known as Ninigret Nectars, but they also aim to be sustainable and carbon negative, meaning that their oysters and farming practices improve the health of the pond and overall environment. Additionally, the farm focuses on hiring locally, paying competitive wages and frequently upgrading their systems to improve efficiency and reduce waste. So when I had the opportunity to visit their farm to learn more and become an oyster farmer for half a day, I couldn’t say no.
We met bright and early at 7 am at their Ninigret Pond dock in Charlestown, where we prepared snacks for the day and dressed in waterproof gear: trousers with attached boots known as “waders.” The pond is the largest of the southern Rhode Island salt ponds, with a breachway to the ocean. Its shoreline is peppered with houses, like the Behan family’s house, but the majority is protected by state and federal agencies and continues to thrive as a diverse ecosystem.
Soon the work started. Each oyster takes between 18–24 months to grow from a “seed,” or baby oyster, into a market-sized oyster, which is typically around three inches long. We took the boat across the pond and began hauling oyster cages aboard, sorting market-sized oysters into buckets. We repeated this process until lunch. Charles Larkin, a staff member, kept apologizing to me, saying I must be bored sorting the oysters. I laughed—I was enjoying myself more than I have in a long time. It was peaceful, almost meditative, being out on the water, listening to a classic rock playlist and letting my mind turn off.
Right before lunch, I took my leave, letting the experts finish sorting the oysters. I reluctantly headed back to my usual day job, but not before I got to taste the freshest oyster I’ve ever eaten, right out of the water. It had a clean, bright salinity, a firm texture and a subtle sweetness with a crisp, briny finish… no cocktail sauce or mignonette needed. Though, for mignonette fans, Matthew Behan, owner of Behan Family Farms, suggests a jalapeño mignonette, the grassy, subtle spiciness pairing perfectly with the briny oysters.
Want to try these special oysters for yourself? Ninigret Nectars and Whiskey Shoals (a larger oyster from Behan’s farm with the same flavor profile) are offered in restaurants worldwide, from Boston to Singapore. In Rhode Island and surrounding regions, they partner with Seawell Seafood and distribute to these restaurants:
- Breachway Grill
- Ocean House
- Olympia Tea Room
- Cinder Restaurant
- River Bar
- Owl & Dove
- High Hope Tavern
- The Junction
Jalapeño Mignonette Recipe
Ingredients
- 1 small jalapeño pepper, finely diced
- 1 small shallot, minced
- ¼ c rice wine vinegar
- ¼ c white vinegar
- 3 tbsp fresh lemon juice
- 3 tbsp fresh lime juice
Instructions
- Prepare the veggies and combine all ingredients in a small bowl or serving dish. Spoon a little bit over each fresh-shucked oyster and enjoy!
