Edible Rhody
Housemade Charcuterie: A Gustatory Sampling in Rhode Island
Photo by David Dadekian
Photo by David Dadekian
At New Rivers, Vestal creates a thinly sliced Canadian bacon, a brined and applewood-smoked pork loin, served with red pepper jam, pickles and mustard, alongside duck prosciutto. He prepares a wet cure for the duck breast and hangs it for about 20 days in the walk-in refrigerator, achieving a beautiful mahogany color, especially when contrasted with pickled shallots.
Photo by David Dadekian
The New Rivers frankfurter with sauerkraut, pickled shallots and mustard is made from Aquidneck Farms beef with a little Berkshire hog fatback from Pat’s Pastured, inside a natural lamb casing. The frankfurter is smoked, then finished by frying on the grill until crispy. Vestal adds, “no bun, so kind of a German/West Austrian beer hall feel.”
Photo by David Dadekian
Chef Wagner (right) of Nick’s on Broadway and his sous-chef, Xavier Munoz (left), prepare a Baffoni’s Poultry Farm chicken liver pâté by rolling it in fresh herbs and freshly cracked black pepper. The pâté is a highlight of the house charcuterie plate and has even found its way into the stuffed French toast.
Photo by David Dadekian
Chez Pascal’s bacon-wrapped pâté sits atop a head terrine and next to the pâté en croûte and salami. The pâtés are made from pork and duck liver with a chicken inlay as garnish. One is wrapped in bacon, the other inside a pastry crust. Gennuso makes the terrine by simmering the pig’s head before picking off the meat. He reduces the cooking liquid with its natural gelatins, which is then poured over the meat.
Photo by David Dadekian
Chez Pascal’s pork rillettes with sweet pepper relish, served as part of their charcuterie plate.
Photo by David Dadekian
Nick’s on Broadway lardo is made from salt-cured fatback from Stoney Hill Cattle Farm pigs, thinly sliced and used in a number of different ways.
