Chef Eli Stirs Portugal into His Menu

After a hiatus from chef-ing at Bristol’s Beehive Café and the eponymous Eli’s Kitchen in Warren—where his mom, Phoebe Dunn of Phoebe’s Fish & Chips in Seekonk, sometimes brought in her famous pies—Eli Dunn has opened a small café in Bristol, Folklore Provisions, that seeks to fuse American and Portuguese influences. He credits the “love story” of meeting his wife and café partner Rachel Lopes-Almeida Dunn, whose family hails from the Azores, with the uptick in Portuguese ingredients and interpretations in his cooking. He hastens to add that some favorites from Eli’s Kitchen are also on the menu.

An expansive pastry display greets customers and lures them into the 20-seat café, with muffins, scones, cinnamon buns and pastel de nata (Portuguese custard tarts). The egg sandwich and the clam chowder are spiked with chouriço; the tuna melt uses Azorean tinned tuna; and the octopus salad with fresh herbs and fingerling potatoes glistens with Portuguese olives and olive oil. “Chef Eli’s burger” is back (complete with smoked bacon), as are his substantial pancakes. Folklore sources locally from Borealis Coffee, Yacht Club sodas, Fully Rooted juices and produce from Four Town Farm.

“I’ve always tried to shape my menu with integrity and focus,” Dunn emphasizes, “and I’m still doing that.” Keep an eye out for themed dinners this fall.

301 Hope St., Bristol. 401.638.0111; FolkloreProvisions.com; @folklore_provisions. Open W–Su, hours vary.