Sly Fox Corn Cakes
Chef/owner Sherry Pocknett, Sly Fox Den Too, Charlestown
These savory corn cakes make use of corn, cornmeal and cranberries, just some of the many Indigenous foods we highlight on the menu at Sly F...
foodways
Chef Sherry Pocknett of Sly Fox Den Too
Traditional and Seasonal Foods Enrich a Modern Menu at Rhode Island’s Only Native American Restaurant
When I first met Indigenous Chef Sherry Pocknett of the Mashpee Wampanoag Tribe over 20 years ago, she was serving up traditional Eastern woodland food and drink as a vendor at local powwows (Native American gatherings with dancing, singing and feasting). She mentioned then that she was working on her dream of owning her own restaurant with the intent to offer authentic Native American cooking to a wider audience. Faith, determination and the blessing of her ancestors were clear in her eyes.
I believed back then that she would inevitably make her dream happen—and now it has!
Chef Pocknett describes herself as an opportunist, which explains why, in October 2020, when she drove by a small restaurant for rent on Route 2 in Charlestown, she decided to sign the lease and open Sly Fox Den Too. The “Too” was added because her Rhode Island restaurant is operating in addition to the flagship location Pocknett is planning to open in Preston, Connecticut.
In March of 2020, because of the pandemic, she halted construction on her Connecticut restaurant and is in the process of restructuring its concept to include a living Native American museum. Her two daughters, Jade Pocknett-Galvin and Cheyenne Pocknett-Galvin, are integral to her team and she also credits her success to the Native community who supported her Go Fund Me campaign with their financial contributions. This support assisted her in the development of both restaurants; the success of her campaign demonstrates how well-loved and respected she is within the community.
Pocknett’s knowledge of traditions, her ingenuity and work ethic carry over into the mouthwatering dishes being served at Sly Fox Too. Pocknett says that her culinary prowess comes from “being born with a wooden spoon in my mouth.” Her family owned and operated The Flume Restaurant in Mashpee on Cape Cod from the early 1970s until 2000. It was similar to Dovecrest, which was a Native American restaurant that operated in Exeter, Rhode Island, for 30 years until it closed in the early 1990s.
Chef Pocknett’s uncle, Chief Flying Eagle (Earl Mills Sr.), was the chef/owner; her grandmother, Delscena Hendricks, was a chef and master baker. Her father, Chief Sly Fox (Vernon Pocknett), was also an inspiration and so she named her restaurant after him. They passed their knowledge of four-season gathering and cooking to Pocknett beginning early in her childhood, from the time she was 3.
All that she learned at the knee of her elders prepared her for a future of preparing and teaching top-level Native American cuisine. It was through her elders that she was instructed on the ways of gathering and turning all four seasons of nature’s bounty into delicious nutritious meals.
Native American traditional foods include the flora and fauna within a geographical region and by nature rely on seasonal harvests. And in our coastal region, its waterways generously supply fresh ingredients year-round that are incorporated in the delicious dishes served by Chef Pocknett. Like her elders, Pocknett has continued their traditions by blessing others with her knowledge and gifts, including her understanding of food sovereignty—which she shares with young people, whom she calls “little sponges.”
“It is my responsibility to teach traditional lifeways to the next generation,” she says. “They need to know how to survive off the land year-round. There are wild berries, fiddleheads, nuts, wild carrots and much more that can sustain them. I especially want my children to know how to fend for themselves should foods become scarce at grocery stores.”
Quahogs in a large painting at Sly Fox Too that look as though they’ll tumble from the canvas onto your plate seem to testify to what she is expressing.
My daughter, Vange, 23, and I are always impressed by the consistent quality of great-tasting food at Sly Fox Too. While I can’t settle on one favorite dish, my daughter’s favorite is the Indian Tacos. I asked Chef Pocknett which dish was her favorite and without pause she answered “fish stew,” in which she uses locally landed seafood.
“I want people to expect the unexpected when they come here,” Chef Pocknett says. For example, because strawberries are treasured by Eastern Woodland Indigenous Nations, she uses them year-round in various dishes, either fresh, dried or preserved, depending on the season or the recipe. At the helm of the only Native American restaurant in Rhode Island, Pocknett blends contemporary cuisine with Native traditional foods and works hard to ensure each dish is carefully prepared and delicious. Her customers certainly take notice.
Jimmy “Ocean” Orefice, a local fisherman, calls Sly Fox Too a “hidden gem.” He was searching for a place serving “quality food” and says anyone who visits will not be disappointed, noting the enjoyable food and gracious hospitality. He added, “I had the wild duck here last week. It was so unexpected and delicious. Where else in the state can you find unique Native American dishes cooked to perfection?” Orefice eats there several times a week and says the staff makes him feel like family.
Joe Brady, a general surgeon at South County Hospital who recently moved into the area, says, “The house-smoked bluefish hash is the best breakfast I have ever had.” Brady is also impressed by Chef Pocknett’s poached eggs. He says, “Not everyone can poach an egg perfectly.” He also is thankful for the friendly atmosphere, “At some restaurants the [staff] can be so detached—but here everyone treats you like you belong.”
Darrylyn Spears-Fry, a member of the Narragansett Nation and a server at the restaurant, says she enjoys working at Sly Fox Too. She recalls when a group of Navajo women, who were conferencing in Rhode Island, came to the restaurant for some Eastern Woodland Indigenous cooking. “They enjoyed themselves and said they would definitely be back,” she recalls. Spears-Fry says her coworkers are nice to work with and she enjoys the variety of people she meets on the job. Beyond offering good food, Sly Fox Too also provides employment in a rural area where local jobs are scarce.
Pocknett says she is living her dream, sharing her knowledge and giving back to the community. Sly Fox Too is not just about great food—although there is plenty of it— it’s also about maintaining historical Indigenous culinary practices. So, this spring, break from winter’s cabin fever and enjoy the creative cooking, seasonal fare and Indigenous food traditions at Sly Fox Too. You, too, will add your voice to those who are singing praises for Chef Pocknett.
Sly Fox Den Too
4349 South County Trail, Charlestown
401.642.7350;
SlyFoxDenRestaurant.com/new-home
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