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A Ramble Through Historic Wakefield Village: An Edible Itinerary

By / Photography By | June 03, 2021
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Enticing eateries feed a vibrant spirit on main street

What keeps a historic village like Wakefield alive and thriving in an era of big-box stores and shopping malls? It stands as a prime example of what a respect for traditions, a welcome for new enterprises, a talent for reinvention and a solid sense of community can accomplish.

During the first months of the Covid lockdown, it was a crucial boost to residents’ spirits that so many places on Main Street, especially eateries, quickly figured out curbside pickups or deliveries. In the late spring of this year, many Wakefield businesses were still struggling to accommodate Covid-related regulations for the summer months. But there was also a spirit of revitalization in the air, with several “new kids on the block” and the much-anticipated return of popular outdoor events, such as theater and music at Contemporary Theatre; nine RiverFire events on the Saugatucket River (plus live music on Thursday nights from Sari’s Sanctuary, a roofed deck extending over the water); two new exhibitions at Hera Gallery; and daily visiting hours at the Glass Station Studio and Gallery (glass-blowing classes will resume in the fall).

It Takes a Village

Locals consider “the village of Wakefield” to be that portion of Main Street that goes down the hill from the bend at the Wakefield Baptist Church (with its iconic white spire) to the bridge over the Saugatucket, with its accompanying dam and fish ladder, plus a short block of Robinson Street midway through that stretch. Several buildings, including a former U.S. Post Office, former banks and former private dwellings date from the mid-to-late 19th century, though their tenants have changed many times over the years.

Yet, in the 1990s, all of that accumulated history might have been ignored, with empty buildings and departed businesses, were it not for an indomitable spirit of togetherness. That spirit spurred the creation of a downtown merchants’ association, which organized summer block parties, sidewalk sales, craft fairs and Christmas trolley rides.

Those led, in this new century, to the revitalized Wakefield Village Association sponsoring village-wide festivals (Summerfest and Oktoberfest—hopefully to return in 2022), to the opening of a small piazza next to the wildly popular Brickley’s Ice Cream (45 flavors are back, with an enlarged takeout window and a still-speedy staff), to “rooftop dining” at the veteran Phil’s Grille and to a flourishing summer Shakespeare season on a new outdoor stage at Contemporary Theatre.

Love Local

And those innovations were fed by a strong sense of “staying local,” with dining, snacking, shopping or just strolling a street lined with benches and old-fashioned street lights. At two crosswalks, a quiver of helpful orange flags are stocked for pedestrians to signal traffic, safely cross the street and plunk the flag into a holder on the other side.

In this invigorated and fun atmosphere, new eating places popped up, creating such loyalty that all but one survived the Covid lockdowns.

El Fuego turned takeout burritos and tacos into a merry conga line, as customers snaked out the door, eager for the fresh flavors and generosity of El Fuego’s offerings. Bōl limited customers and their menu of gluten-free, dairy-free smoothies, lattes and toasts during the lockdown, but they are now fully open.

Cowabunga’s surfing-themed sandwiches were restricted to curbside pickups, but this family business caught the wave and is still riding high with a full menu of Cubans, Reubens, hot chicken salad and many more—”Bunga-style” means potato chips inside the sandwich!

Auntie’s Kitchen, in striking contrast, specializes in vegan bowls of grains and beans and veggies. Kathy Curley made it through on takeout for their scratch-made and gluten-free pastries, organic coffee and teas, frittatas, hand pies, a new kombucha dispenser— and a lot of pluck!

The latter also applies to Liz Hill, who moved her fledgling business, South Coast Organics & Bulk Foods, from Narragansett to Robinson Street just two months before lockdown. Having kept her co-op-style business small enough that she and another employee could fill all the bulk orders, even pre-Covid, that meant that all orders went online, for pickup or delivery. Her business actually grew during those early Covid months.

New Ventures

Wakefield Nutrition (which opened during Covid) is perking along with 50 flavors of protein shakes, “tea bombs” and energy drinks.

At opposite ends of the village, two Thai restaurants have flourished: Luk Thai Cuisine and Sa Tang have very similar menus, with noodle and fried rice dishes, curries and chef-special entrees, but each has its dedicated fans.

Two businesses from just “around the bend” moved into Wakefield Village this spring: Green Line Apothecary and Caf-Bar. Green Line Apothecary is expanding in many ways, including a drive-through option for any product, even from the soda fountain, where they will be making their own ice cream, including vegan options. The entire soda fountain menu will also be offered at the street-side takeout window—shakes, floats, phosphates, lime rickeys and egg creams, plus coffee and tea.

Caf-Bar had been an unusually small coffee and tea bar, with outdoor tables spread on its front lawn. In its current incarnation, it has tables in a back courtyard but also a captivating indoor space, with an expanded menu of sandwiches beyond bagels and pastries beyond cookies.

Also this spring, South County Bread Company (opened during Covid) moved from Kingston to Main Street. This bodacious bakery has developed a loyal clientele for Jeff Collins’s sourdough breads and melt-in-your- mouth pastries. At the new location, coffee and tea, quiche and bread pudding, plus a few local items, such as jam and spreads, have been added.

Two specialty bakeries have also found a home in Wakefield Village: Baked By Jessica (behind Sa Tang) focuses on cakes and cupcakes, primarily by pre-order. Isis Cakes does pre-order only, with a weekly delivery to the Robinson Street storefront.

A brand-new bistro, Duck Press, opened in late spring, with chef-owner Mark Bryson and wife, Alicia, (they also own Binge BBQ in Newport) grabbing the chance for a full-service restaurant. Mark is classically French-trained—”duck press” refers to a French cooking gadget—but he hastens to add that their establishment will feature plenty of seafood, including a made-to-order modern take on chowder, house-made pasta dishes, plus duck entrees. They are aiming for “casual service and a casual atmosphere,” despite the “fancy” cuisine.

Old Favorites

Old-timers that have hung in, through thick and thin, are Phil’s Grille (used to be Phil’s Diner but now offers “woodstone pizza,” house-made BBQ, outdoor rooftop cocktails and the familiar diner breakfast and lunch fare); Pier Pizza (New York–style brick oven pizza, calzones, subs and salads); and Meldgie’s (used to be Riverview Cafe), a homey diner with expected breakfast and lunch items, plus daily specials of old-fashioned New England cooking, such as “American chop suey.”

And among that group is the venerable Mews Tavern, which has, over the years, added bars (now three in the building) and menu items to fit almost any mood or whim. A favorite with college students and tourists alike, it also offered a lot of takeout this past year, but is hoping to be back up to full speed this summer.

Also at this southwestern edge of the village is Sweeney’s Wine and Spirits, known for its wide selection of local brews as well as imported wines.

The other businesses along Main Street alternate between those founded in the ‘60s (or before) and passed down through families, those that came alive in the ‘90s and those that definitely reflect a 21st-century vibe. The latter is seen in the small CBD Boutique (with their own blended brand); a Puerto Rican–born barbershop, with a devoted Latinx and Black clientele (Jordan’s New Style); a tattoo parlor (Wakefield Tattoo); a frame shop that will digitize old photos or video (Finishing Touches); and an expansive yoga studio with attached shop (All That Matters).

The majority of businesses in Wakefield Village are owned by women; at least three were inherited from their fathers, including The Dove & Distaff, which has extended its reputation for upholstery into rugs, pajamas and alpaca-knitted items, from owner Carla Davis’s Matunuck Alpaca Farm.

And a Breath of Fresh Air

So, after a peek into a shop or two and collecting picnic supplies from any of the takeout eateries mentioned here, a short walk down behind Duck Press leads to Riverwalk, with benches and a picnic table and a riverside path back to the fish ladder. Or, cross the bridge to the waterside sanctuary (watch for turtles, listen for frogs!) or to the large park and playground next to it.

Just a short distance above that bridge is the second pedestrian bridge, which is the William C. O’Neill Bike Path, headed eastward (across the river) to Kingston or westward to Narragansett Beach. Make a day of it in Wakefield Village: three meals, exercise and some art thrown in!

Data Points for Wakefield Village Eateries

Visitors’ Note: Two public parking lots are available next to the Saugatucket River accessible from Main Street. Public restrooms are located next to the bike path.

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