notable edibles

The Eatery is Humming Along

By | March 05, 2020
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There are five species of hummingbirds in Jamaica—it’s also the national bird. Three are endemic to the island, which means “native and restricted to that area.” And though jerk chicken is often thought “endemic” to Jamaica, it’s definitely not restricted. Jamaican natives Dezna Bowen and her husband, Abraham Parkes, co-owners of Humming Bird restaurant, serve up a terrific jerk chicken as well as jerk shrimp, curried goat, “rasta pasta” (with shrimp and crabmeat), a “brown stew chicken” and many Jamaican-inspired salads and sandwiches, with Jamaican place names.

Bowen studied food and nutrition at Heart Academy in Jamaica and first cooked at Jamaican luxury resort Half Moon. When she came to the U.S. 25 years ago, she worked at a country inn in Manchester, Vermont. After relocating to Newport, she worked at the hospital, followed by the Castle Hill Inn before opening Humming Bird in October 2018.

“Cooking is my passion,” she stresses. “My Chinese grandmother was a great cook, and she learned the Jamaican dishes for my grandfather. When I was young, I watched her cook all the time.”

With fresh ingredients, locally sourced when available, Bowen is still adjusting her menu, sometimes serving handmade plantain chips, sometimes tasty fish balls. Decorated with Jamaican metal sculptures, paintings and woven baskets, Humming Bird has a fresh and comfortable family-friendly vibe ... plus, the food is delicious!

104 Broadway, Newport. 401.619.0032; HummingBirdNewport.com

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