Mussel Up to Dinner
Glistening Bivalves and Aromatic Vegetables Overdeliver Flavor and Fanciness in Under 20 Minutes
Spring: The days grow longer and things start to sprout out of the ground! For those of us in New England, it’s the annual rush to gather garlic scapes, fiddleheads, asparagus—basically, anything green. We love you, gourds, but it’s time for a break. It’s not you, it’s us.
This year, I’m turning my attention to fennel, that feathery-haired cousin of the carrot. Raw fennel has a crisp texture and a fresh licorice flavor. Cooked, it takes on a sweeter flavor and tender, melt-in-your mouth texture. Here, we braise the bulb in wine where its inherent sweetness serves as a foil for briny mussels.
Farmed mussels are one of our most sustainable seafood options. They don’t require much room to prosper, they grow quickly in a variety of saltwater environments and their filter-feeding habits improve water quality. They’re also super quick to cook and downright delicious to eat.
Fennel brings fiber, vitamin C, potassium and a whole host of other nutrients to the table—plus, it has long been considered a digestive aid due to its anti-inflammatory properties. We amp up the fennel in this dish by incorporating some dry fennel salami and a dash of pastis or Pernod.
The mussels will add their own briny liquid to the broth as they open, so taste judiciously for salt. Once you start cooking the mussels, make sure your dining companion has set the table and poured the wine, because this dish moves quickly. And considering how long we’ve anticipated spring’s arrival, there’s no sense in waiting for dinner.