cooking fresh weeknight

The Sides Make the Meal

By | September 09, 2021
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Embrace High Heat to Discover the Crispy Sweet and Soft Sides of Cabbage and Apples

Cabbage and anchovies are probably not going to win any alimentary popularity contests. In the high school hierarchy of food, cabbage likely won’t be head cheerleader and anchovies aren’t a top contender for quarterback. However, like most of us who took a back seat in high school, these two have plenty going for them.

Cabbage is nutrient-dense, readily available and inexpensive. Anchovies are rich in omega-3 fatty acids and can last for at least two months in the refrigerator if properly stored, submerged in oil.

This cabbage is deeply fragrant with blistered edges and takes on a nutty, sweet flavor when cooked over ripping-hot heat. It develops great texture that’s simultaneously tender and crisp. Using Napa or Savoy cabbage, with their signature frilly leaves, allows even greater levels of char, but any type of cabbage will work.

The apples collapse ever so slightly on themselves and develop an applesauce-like quality. Smaller apples work well here but if only large are available, cut them into quarters instead of halves. Together, cabbage and apples are a natural partner for sautéed pork cutlet or a generous scattering of crisp-roasted chickpeas.

Cabbage’s layered structure also makes it the ideal vessel for capturing the piquant walnut-anchovy sauce. Nervous about the anchovies? Don’t be! They impart a savory richness, not a fishy flavor. A tablespoon of miso can pinch hit for the anchovies to make this recipe vegan. No walnuts? No problem! Pecans, almonds, hazelnuts or pistachios all play nicely.

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