What's in a Name? Pastelito or Empanada?

When Tony Lugo was a teenager, his older brothers would be outside playing sports while he was in the kitchen, with his mother (Anny) and his grandmother (Ana Maitilde), learning to cook classic Dominican dishes, including pastelitos—called empanadas in other Latin American countries. Lugo uses both terms for the pastries he makes at his Dominican eatery, Matilda, and most of his pastelitos are fried. Despite the business name, Lugo does not use his grandmother’s recipe for his pastry dough, but a vegan version that he developed. Among the nine savory empanadas offered, one is vegan, three are vegetarian and five include meat. Lugo uses traditional Dominican spices and offers crispy house-made plantain chips with every order. “They are so addictive,” Lugo admits, “and so worth the trouble.” A Johnson & Wales University grad with stints at Gillette Stadium, Brandeis University and Au Bon Pain, Lugo took the leap into his own business in 2017 with the help of many loyal friends and family, including sister Claudia and cousins Peter and his two children. Though Covid-19 knocked out a permanent location, Lugo plans to have his new food truck completed by November. Meanwhile you can order online for pickup at the rear of his Johnston location (269 Greenville Ave., aside the Our Lady of Grace Church parking lot) or look for Matilda at pop-ups and farmers markets.

Follow on Instagram for updates @MatildaRI and order online at MatildaRI.com.