Westerly's Renaissance
A Wave of New Restaurants Reflect the Renewal Underway in Rhode Island’s Southernmost Seaside Town
In the Italian Renaissance, many small towns and larger cities had patrons— for building churches, for supporting artists and architects, for initiating civic ventures. It’s therefore fitting that Westerly, so thickly settled by Neapolitans, Calabrians and Sicilians in the late 19th and early 20th century, should be undergoing a vibrant decade-long rebirth, set in motion by the patronage of Chuck Royce, with assistance from his son-in-law, Dan King.
The Royce family’s first very visible rehabilitation projects were the iconic Ocean House (2010) and Weekapaug Inn (2012). The next such project landed in Downtown Westerly: a rundown hotel became the sterling Savoy Bookshop and Café (2016). And during these last 10+ years, there has been a lot of behind-the-scenes support by the Royce family for many other Downtown undertakings, including the Knickerbocker Music Center (2015); the ambitious Westerly Education Center, offering postsecondary and workforce training (2017); the arts and cultural center at the United Theatre (2021); and several restaurants, including a handful that have opened in the past nine months.
One of the fortuitous aspects of such renewal is that it’s infectious. Much of Westerly’s revitalization has been spurred on by the Royce projects and investments, but it also springs from many other community-minded groups and eager entrepreneurs. A few of those groups are the Westerly Library & Wilcox Park, the Ocean Chamber of Commerce, the Colonial Theatre, the Granite Theatre, the Chorus of Westerly, The Westerly Land Trust and the Bricks and Murals organization.
Commercial endeavors that reflect the optimism growing in the town include two eateries on the Pawcatuck River: Cinder and Stick + Fin, the latter’s name and inside decor from the surfing world (the wood of the board, plus the “fin”). Stick + Fin offers an array of coffee drinks, teas and cold drinks, plus avocado toast variations, fruit or veggie bowls and sandwiches. Inside, there are surfboards and surf-themed items to browse; outside, there are tables with a view of the water.
The river view is not lost on nearby Cinder’s owner Sam Agniello. “The Pawcatuck River and Westerly’s coastline are essential aspects of life in Westerly. From here, on any given day you can watch boats headed to the beach or out to fish, while the surrounding mill buildings provide a sense of our shipbuilding and seafaring history,” he says.
Cinder itself has the natural wood feel of a farm stand or a barbecue shack, though there’s lots of light among all the wood surfaces inside, even an overhead door that rolls up to seasonal warmth. As at Stick + Fin, there is outdoor seating, plus Cinder offers fire pits in their expansive courtyard.
Fresh air and outdoor seating are also found along Canal Street, as Surf Cantina opens three garage doors to the outside; tables are available in front of The Café nearby; and on the patio at Nana’s Bakery & Pizza, which sits behind that Canal Street block.
But it’s the indoor decor/atmosphere and the menus plus the chefs’ and owners’ backgrounds that clearly distinguish these five spots. Sam Agniello was the brains behind the design in Cinder, keeping it sleek, minimalist, with strong Scandinavian influences.
In stark contrast is the plush Golden Hollywood– era effect of The Café, with a corner banquette near a fireplace here, a quartet of soft chairs around a low table there. Like a 1920s supper club, the bar is backed by a 26-foot-long mirror, reflecting metallic stars and period globe lights. The walls display a carefully curated collection of classic movie posters, illustrations, drawings and paintings from the 1930s through the ’50s.
Pivot to the inviting but sophisticated café at Nana’s Bakery & Pizza, which achieves a continental look from natural brick walls, slatted-wood benches, elegantly curved chairs and marble tables. A turn around the block brings you into the hopping New York City/West Coast/South Beach energy that is Surf Cantina, complete with a 40- seat bar, a pool table and a variety of seating areas, including couches.
The menu offerings match the scenes in these restaurants. Cinder is not actually barbecue, despite the delectable aromas that greet you at the door. It is slow-cooked meats—lamb, pork, beef, chicken—that are smoked or braised, often using “butcher’s cuts”—the “leftovers,” after the prime cuts.
“We keep our flavors clean and unhindered to highlight each cut of meat. Our food really blends the diversity of our chefs’ backgrounds and, as a result, our menu features unique flavors served in a satisfying way,” says Agniello. “And we’re currently making strides to break ground on land in town to provide our own produce. For now, our greens are grown by local hands in the farmers’ community food hub.”
He adds, “The Cinder culture offers a laidback atmosphere with fast service. It’s perfect for a quick bite or for group gatherings to enjoy the food and chill out.”
Nana’s is all about small plates and sourdough pizza (made with house-ground grains and local veggies, meats and cheeses). They also offer a rotation of eight to 10 types of bread, plus bagels, croissants, made-to-order “sourdoughnuts” and Portuguese egg custard tarts. Also, a full bar, house-made kombucha and other intriguing beverages.
Chef/co-owner James Wayman won national accolades for Nana’s incarnation in Mystic, Connecticut. That first spot has a similar menu but is more takeout with outdoor picnic tables.
“Westerly feels like a real community more than just a tourist town—a place where people work and live, and we’re enjoying that,” Wayman reflects.
The overall theme of Surf Cantina’s seasonal menu, created by Chef Frances Medina, is Mexican fusion—a burger with Chihuahua cheese and a pasta with chipotle bacon, plus a brunch “Biscuit Benny” with pulled pork and chili con queso are offered, along with tacos, nachos and guacamole. Her chowder using local soppressata has also become a favorite. And Operations Manager Justin Cerro stresses Cantina as a “neighborhood drop-in spot,” with live music and DJs on the weekends, Ladies’ Nights and Monday Industry Nights.
Of his newest dining venture, at The Café, Culinary Institute of America–trained Dan King says: “We want people to come pre- or post-movie, and we wanted food that would carry the nostalgia of those places that were surrounding movie houses: Cobb salad, chicken paprikash, chicken liver toasts.”
The Café, led by Chef Todd Keister, sources seafood and produce locally but also is trying some sustainable meat options, such as boar and elk. General Manager Steve Corrigan’s drink program includes seasonal cocktails that give diners “a wink and a nod,” as King puts it, about what might seem like a more formal dining space.
“Chuck wakes up every day and thinks about strengthening community,” King says, referring to his father-in-law’s investments in the town of Westerly.
“We’re grateful to be a part of the rising tide,” Agniello agrees. “And we’re excited to contribute to the growth of downtown, Main Street and the Pawcatuck River front.”
Data Points
The Café
3 Canal St., Westerly
401.357.0300; TheCafeRI.com
Cinder
169 Main St., Westerly
401.229.3377; CinderRestaurant.com
Nana’s Bakery & Pizza
82 High St., Westerly
401.213.3911; NanasRI.com
Stick + Fin
163 Main St., Westerly
StickAndFin.square.site
Surf Cantina
15 Canal St., Westerly
401.388.8626; Surf-Cantina.com
Added Bites
In addition to the newer drinking-and-dining establishments in Downtown Westerly, the previous decade-plus saw many other culinary and imbibing successes along High Street, Canal Street and farther out from Downtown.
These include:
Amigos Taqueria y Tequila
The Brazen Hen (Irish pub)
Ella’s Fine Food and Drink (French-Asian inspired)
Graze Burgers
Grey Sail Brewing
Knead Donuts
Koi (Japanese)
The Malted Barley (elevated bar food and beer)
Noodle Revolution (pan-Asian)
Tapped Apple Cidery and Winery
Perk and Corks (finger food, sandwiches, cocktails)
South County Distillers
Thong (Thai)
10 Sandwiches
