When I first settled in Rhode Island in the early ‘70s, I was perplexed by the concept of this state’s “towns,” which often encompass many “villages.” And since South Kingstown is the largest town, geographically, it has a large number of villages, both inland farms and forests and several seaside nooks, which have long been summer havens for northern Rhody residents.

Often neither year-round residents nor out-of- town visitors have explored or experienced tucked-away corners or intriguing vistas in these familiar spaces. So, beginning with Green Hill to the west and moving easterly to Snug Harbor, you could plan a day or two of wandering through one or more of these six villages, stopping for some sand and surf, a nature walk, a historic house tour, an edible treat or full-fledged dinner, a brew with a view, a summer-stock musical or live music in a beach bar. Though most of the itinerary below could be accomplished by hiking or biking, after-dark expeditions or crossing to the north side of Route 1 might be better undertaken by car.

Green Hill

Since there are no markets in the Green Hill area, you might swing off the highway at the Matunuck exit to pick up provisions at the Seaview Market on Matunuck Beach Road before heading farther west on School House Road to Green Hill Beach Road. Seaview has grinders or sandwiches (including homemade chicken salad) that feed two people for a small and three for a large! They also carry local seasonal herbs and veggies and groceries of all kinds.

Green Hill itself is mostly residential, but there is an eponymous town park, complete with basketball, tennis and sand volleyball courts; a playground and picnic tables; a nature trail and paved walking path. A helpful hedge against summer crowds is the park’s out-of-the-way lot, where bicyclers could leave their car and bike to Green Hill Beach (no cars may park there) and walk onto the beach, via the South Kingstown right-of-way.

As you cycle easterly from Green Hill (on School House Road) you will come across Trustom Pond National Wildlife Refuge, one of only five national refuges in the state and the only undeveloped coastal salt pond in Rhode Island.

It’s well worth a stop: to hike its trails, take photos from its viewing platforms and— always—be prepared to see wildlife. Even in the high heat of summer, you will see wading birds and maybe a swan family in or near the salt marshes (there are 300 bird species); turtles and frogs (and lily pads!) in the fresh ponds (20 species of reptiles and amphibians); deer, rabbits or even a skunk in the shrub lands and meadows (more than 40 mammal species).

Just north of the park (and the zigzag of Green Hill Beach Road) is a little-known treasure: the South Kingstown Sculpture Trail, a short walk with 23 contributions from local artists.

Moonstone Beach

From the Trustom Refuge, it’s a short distance to Moonstone Beach Road. If you turn south, you’ll end up at a dirt road leading to the right-of-way to the beach (currently no car parking allowed). After crossing a bridge over a Card’s Pond tributary, it’s just a few steps up a ridge of dunes to hear and admire the pounding surf of Block Island Sound.

Ah, but if you had turned north on Moonstone Beach Road, you would have immediately followed your nose to Daddy’s Bread Bakery and just a bit farther up the road’s twists and turns, you’d find an 18thcentury grist mill, brought back to life by Bob and Diane Smith in 1985 and deeded to the South Kingstown Land Trust (SKLT) in 2012. SKLT hosts a few educational grindings for children and adults each summer. (Check with SKLT for updates this year due to a construction project delayed by spring rain.)

Matunuck

Going south once more and turning east onto School House Road, you could stop at the Browning Homestead Farm Stand, a 135-acre farm founded in 1657 and now run by 11th generation Bill Browning and his wife, Roberta Mulholland Browning. They raise “birth-to-table” grass-fed beef, rose veal, lamb and pork, plus organic veggies.

Alternatively, you could pull in to Carpenter’s Farm Stand, on Matunuck Beach Road. It’s a five-generation farm, with alluring homemade baked goods (try a pie!); salsas, sauces and jams; grass-fed beef and free-range eggs, plus loads of homegrown fruits, veggies and garden plants.

Or you could just lay your bike in the grass and jaunt around the Weeden Trail, under the protection and direction of the SKLT and near the SKLT Barn, an architecturally stunning restoration. The trail is a nice summer hike, with visual, auditory and olfactory senses set off by expansive stone walls and pastoral fields, bird calls and dragonfly hums, wildflowers and edible weeds (see Hale House sidebar).

Heading back toward the ocean on Matunuck Beach Road, two beach walks beckon (as well as a filled-up waffle cone or a sundae at The Original Vanilla Bean, founded in 1983). The South Kingstown Town Beach has many amenities, including a picnic and playground area, shade structures and fishing water access. And, at the end of Matunuck Beach Road, there’s a sign for “Deep Hole Fishing Area,” a “secret” beach access, prized equally by surfcasters, kiteboarders, beachcombers and sunset gazers.

If you’re considering a bit of nightlife in Matunuck, you might make this an overnight getaway—look into the Admiral Dewey Inn or the Meyer House Bed & Breakfast. Dinner and summer stock at Theatre-by-the-Sea is always a treat, as are the side-by-side pubs right on the beach. The Ocean Mist is a quintessential beach bar: great live music, yummy food, plentiful beer and ocean waves washing up under your feet. The Pub next door lays claim to being the oldest Irish bar in the state, also with plenty of music and beer and a rooftop deck with a view of Block Island.

To get across Route 1 to the Hale House from Matunuck Beach Road, you must merge onto Route 1 and then do a quick jug-handle turnaround and you land at the Hale House driveway.

Hale House was once a 19th-century summer home for author, historian and minister Edward Everett Hale and his brood of artistic family members, including Ellen Day (“Nellie”) Hale, Phillip Hale, Lillian Westcott Hale and Susan Hale. Weekend tours include an art exhibit, films and croquet (F and Sa afternoons, 1–4 pm). This summer, Hale House will also sponsor three food-related events (see Hale House sidebar).

From Matunuck, you must also get onto Route 1 and head east for East Matunuck. A short way off the East Matunuck exit, at a turn-in near the water tower, is Brousseau Park, with opportunities for baseball, tennis, softball and soccer, disc golf, plus nature trails and a walking/bike path.

Snug Harbor

Here again, at Brousseau Park, is a parking lot to leave your car and take your bike down to Snug Harbor, to look at boats at Point Judith Marina or go over to the Snug Harbor Marina Snack Bar to chow down for breakfast (generous build-your-own omelets) or lunch (tasty and creative sandwiches and salads). Also, don’t miss the hilariously homemade Fourth of July Parade in Snug Harbor, complete with a beach-chair- folding drill!

East Matunuck

Biking back up Gooseberry Road to Succotash Road, take a left toward the beach for three eateries, a seafood market and East Matunuck State Beach. The latter is noted for its strong surf but beautiful strand and its futuristic alternative-energy-powered pavilion, with bathhouses and snack bar. Often there are lots of polished rocks to ponder along the shoreline.

The first eatery on Succotash Road is the Matunuck Oyster Bar, with stellar seafood of all kinds, including owner Perry Raso’s own farmed oysters pulled from the pond the restaurant overlooks. On certain days, you can watch them unload the oysters on the dock next to the outside seating area. They also raise their own organic vegetables and offer homemade desserts. Almost right across the road is Captain Jack’s Restaurant, a family institution in this beach community. Patrons love the fried seafood platters, the pasta, pizza and sandwiches. Kids gaze at the cold case full of colorful desserts.

Jerusalem

As you bicycle on down to Jerusalem, you’ll reach Skip’s Dock and immediately thereafter, Jim’s Dock. Skip’s is another local (but seasonal) favorite, with much of the seafood procured from the fishing boats coming right into Point Judith Pond. Skip’s also has a full takeout menu, including warm lobster rolls, stuffies, New England and Rhode Island chowder, plus a clambake-to-go.

But Jim’s Dock is the place to be if you want to eat seafood with a view of the boats bringing it in. From the large deck, you can feast on breakfast, lunch or dinner, including Jim’s clamcakes, grilled swordfish or tuna (from those boats), crunchy flounder (dipped in crushed cornflakes and spices) or seasonal home-baked pies. All of this while watching the Block Island ferries come and go, across the way in Galilee, or hooting with laughter at the daredevil kids jumping off a nearby dock.

This “Rhode Trip” gives you just a bit of the flavor of these seaside villages. It’s up to you to take as many days as possible to breathe in that salt air on beach or bike, lean back with some delicious seafood while gazing at the views, hike around Trustom’s trails or delight in a high-energy musical. It’s all there, squeezed into a small portion of the Ocean State’s southern coastline.