Alliums Announce the Change of Seasons
Wave a Flag for Team Leek in This Bright Springtime Fish Stew
“You can’t make a good soup without a leek.” My dear pal Anastasia spoke these words to me early in our friendship. I hadn’t given much thought to a soup’s sine qua non previously, but I wasn’t about to counter a charismatic, six-foot-tall, stunning redhead with strong opinions about food. So, I adopted her philosophy and became a full-blown member of Team Leek.
After a winter that felt like it lasted a year, it’s exciting to see any trace of green at the farmers market—and leeks announce spring’s arrival with gusto. They join new potatoes to take center stage in this quick stew made along with delicate white fish. Moreover, the entire bowl is festooned with a spicy and lemony fresh herb salad. The dish is warm enough to fight off a chilly spring day and bright enough to augur milder temperatures.
Leeks are low in calories but high in nutrients, particularly magnesium and vitamins A, C and K. Like their allium siblings—onions, chives, ramps, shallots and garlic—they are a good source of allicin and other sulfur compounds that may benefit heart health. This recipe calls for just the white and light green parts of the leek but don’t toss the dark green tops. They make a fine addition to any stockpot when making stocks of any type (veggie, chicken, meat or fish).
Feel free to swap out the potatoes here for a can of drained and rinsed white beans or leftover cooked rice, or even stale bread. They’ll all provide enough heft to make the stew a filling meal.